The tacos offer plenty to recommend, starting with tortillas pressed to order with yellow masa from Portland’s own Three Sisters Nixtamal. Visit us today and you’ll likely find a few hungry folks waiting in the parking lot for tacos and taquitos, or huddling over plates on a narrow, shaded, light-bedecked patio overlooking a verdant canyon. After a 7-month hiatus, Tito’s Taquitos reopened this spring in a larger truck and in a new location. After being fired in 2020, La Pietra began planning his Taquito business, eventually opening an undersized shopping cart on Southwest Vermont Street. La Pietra, a culinary school graduate with an early career as a chef for Hollywood films and television shows, previously ran two restaurants near his home in southeast Los Angeles, then moved to Portland about five years ago and landed a job as a catering chef for Adidas. It took the pandemic to make that happen. Before his death, Margarito encouraged La Pietra to open a restaurant dedicated to his favorite dish. That’s a credit to former Los Angeles chef Anthony La Pietra and his late stepfather, Margarito, who loved taquitos and after whom the cart is named. But by any name, I’m confident that Tito’s Taquitos, a year-old cart that reopened next spring next to a Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway gas station, is the tastiest version in Portland and some of the best in all of America. Fillings vary regionally, although potatoes and chicken are common, as is the bed of cabbage and accompanying avocado sauce. I’ve been looking for her ever since.Īlthough the terms are practically interchangeable, flautas are sometimes (though not always) made with larger flour tortillas, while taquitos (and tacos dorados) are made with smaller corn tortillas. As we walked to a subway station, we stopped at a neon-lit restaurant, where my father explained that the flautas he ordered got their name and thin form from the Spanish word for flute. I was in Mexico City visiting my “Uncle Slim” (a family friend, no relationship) and my father had decided to take me to the house where Marxist revolutionary Leon Trotsky was assassinated in exile (wait, how did you spend it your Summer holidays?). And so, my very first experience with stuffed, rolled, and fried tortillas actually came with flautas, not taquitos. Growing up in a Scottish family with a skeptical view of modern refrigeration, my home was typically short of pizza rolls, jalapeño poppers, taquitos, and other hallmarks of the American frozen food aisle.
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